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A history of Mount Everest expedition is intertwined with the disastrous expedition the author was a part of, during which five members were killed by a hurricane-strength blizzard. When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, 1996, he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29,028 feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3,000 feet lower, in 70-knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were in a desperate struggle for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Krakauer examines what it is about Everest that has compelled so many people - including himself - to throw caution to the wind, ignore the concerns of loved ones, and willingly subject themselves to such risk, hardship, and expense. Written with emotional clarity and supported by his unimpeachable reporting, Krakauer's eye-witness account of what happened on the roof of the world is a singular achievement.… (plus d'informations)
marzipanz: It may seem like an obvious recommendation, but I would really urge everybody to read The Climb instead of or in addition to Into Thin Air. It really sheds a completely new light on some of what Krakauer writes, and - to me - seemed a far more convincing account of some of the events.… (plus d'informations)
oregonobsessionz: While The Climb is not an easy read like Into Thin Air, it does provide a different perspective on the disaster, and answers some of Krakauer's criticisms of Boukreev's actions.
bluepiano: I may be the only reader of Krakauer's book who thought Boukreev came across as a hero in it. The Climb is a heartening reminder that experience, intelligence, and calm can be the makings of heroism, and it's quite interesting as well.
BookWallah: If you liked Into Thin Air, then you are ready for the mountaineering classic, Everest: The West Ridge. This sparse first person account of the other American team that came after Whitaker in 1963 and put up a route that has seldom been repeated.
normandie_m: The events in this book re-opened discussion of the controversies surrounding the 1996 disaster. Heil examines similar themes, particularly the ethical dilemma of whether or not to offer assistance to/rescuing sick climbers when one's own health and supplies such as oxygen are depleted.… (plus d'informations)
> « Laissé pour mort à l’Everest » en 1996, l’Américain Beck Weathers a réappris à vivre Dans un livre de 2000 tout juste traduit en français, l’alpiniste amateur explique les raisons qui l’ont conduit sur l’Everest, où il a frôlé la mort. —Le Monde.fr
> Jon Krakauer nous emmène avec lui dans le périple qu'est l'ascension de l'Everest. Et si le livre le plus palpitant de l'année se passait à 8 848 mètres d'altitude ? L'auteur d'Into the Wild - adapté au cinéma par Sean Penn - a participé à une expédition dans l'Himalaya qui a tourné au cauchemar (huit morts...), en 1996. Il raconte cliniquement le froid, la commercialisation à outrance des sommets (70 000 dollars par personne pour gravir l'Everest !), les "embouteillages" à 7 000 mètres, les amours propres brisés, les oedèmes pulmonaires, la culpabilité des survivants (il s'en est fallu de peu qu'il y reste lui aussi...) Bref, l'envers des traditionnelles épopées himalayennes. Magistral. —L'Express
> RÉCIT D’UN SURVIVANT. — Passionné d'alpinisme et écrivain journaliste, Jon Krakauer réalisa pour le magazine d'aventure américain Outside un reportage sur le camp de base de l’Everest. Mais une terrifiante tragédie eut lieu durant cette saison du printemps 1996. Une météo préalablement favorable pour toutes la expéditions, une heure limite de retour non respectée et une tempête survenue soudainement causeront la perte de huit regrettés grimpeurs. Jon fut l’un des survivants de cet effroyable drame. Il le raconte dans ce livre qui vous transmettra sûrement des sueurs froides. —Pierre Gauchot - BIBLIO 46 Livres de Russie
An experienced climber himself, Mr. Krakauer gives us both a tactile appreciation of the dangerous allure of mountaineering and a compelling chronicle of the bad luck, bad judgment and doomed heroism that led to the deaths of his climbing companions.
Informations provenant du Partage des connaissances anglais.Modifiez pour passer à votre langue.
Men play at tragedy because they do not believe in the reality of the tragey which is actually being staged in the civilised world. —José Ortega y Gasset
Dédicace
Informations provenant du Partage des connaissances anglais.Modifiez pour passer à votre langue.
For Linda; and in memory of Andy Harris, Doug Hansen, Rob Hall, Yasuko Namba, Scott Fischer, Ngawang Topche Sherpa, Chen Yu-Nana, Bruce Herrod, and Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa
Premiers mots
Informations provenant du Partage des connaissances anglais.Modifiez pour passer à votre langue.
Straddling the top of the world, one foot in China and the other in Nepal, I cleared the ice from my oxygen mask, hunched a shoulder against the wind, and stared absently down at the vastness of Tibet.
Citations
Informations provenant du Partage des connaissances anglais.Modifiez pour passer à votre langue.
Getting to the top of any given mountain was considered much less important than how one got there: prestige was earned by tackling the most unforgiving routes with minimal equipment, in the boldest style imaginable. John Krakauer
Derniers mots
Informations provenant du Partage des connaissances anglais.Modifiez pour passer à votre langue.
Beidleman paused. "But I can't help thinking about Yasuko," he said when he resumed, his voice hushed. "She was so little. I can still feel her fingers sliding across my biceps, and then letting go. I never even turned to look back."
A history of Mount Everest expedition is intertwined with the disastrous expedition the author was a part of, during which five members were killed by a hurricane-strength blizzard. When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, 1996, he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29,028 feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3,000 feet lower, in 70-knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were in a desperate struggle for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Krakauer examines what it is about Everest that has compelled so many people - including himself - to throw caution to the wind, ignore the concerns of loved ones, and willingly subject themselves to such risk, hardship, and expense. Written with emotional clarity and supported by his unimpeachable reporting, Krakauer's eye-witness account of what happened on the roof of the world is a singular achievement.
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Dans un livre de 2000 tout juste traduit en français, l’alpiniste amateur explique les raisons qui l’ont conduit sur l’Everest, où il a frôlé la mort.
—Le Monde.fr
> Jon Krakauer nous emmène avec lui dans le périple qu'est l'ascension de l'Everest.
Et si le livre le plus palpitant de l'année se passait à 8 848 mètres d'altitude ? L'auteur d'Into the Wild - adapté au cinéma par Sean Penn - a participé à une expédition dans l'Himalaya qui a tourné au cauchemar (huit morts...), en 1996. Il raconte cliniquement le froid, la commercialisation à outrance des sommets (70 000 dollars par personne pour gravir l'Everest !), les "embouteillages" à 7 000 mètres, les amours propres brisés, les oedèmes pulmonaires, la culpabilité des survivants (il s'en est fallu de peu qu'il y reste lui aussi...) Bref, l'envers des traditionnelles épopées himalayennes. Magistral.
—L'Express
> RÉCIT D’UN SURVIVANT. — Passionné d'alpinisme et écrivain journaliste, Jon Krakauer réalisa pour le magazine d'aventure américain Outside un reportage sur le camp de base de l’Everest. Mais une terrifiante tragédie eut lieu durant cette saison du printemps 1996. Une météo préalablement favorable pour toutes la expéditions, une heure limite de retour non respectée et une tempête survenue soudainement causeront la perte de huit regrettés grimpeurs. Jon fut l’un des survivants de cet effroyable drame. Il le raconte dans ce livre qui vous transmettra sûrement des sueurs froides.
—Pierre Gauchot - BIBLIO 46 Livres de Russie