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Rêves de montagnes (1990)

par Jon Krakauer

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1,3192114,380 (3.7)29
No one writes about mountaineering and its attendant hardships and victories more brilliantly than critically acclaimed author Jon Krakauer. In this collection of his finest work from such magazines as Outside and Smithsonian, he explores the subject from the unique and memorable perspective of one who has battled peaks like K2, Denali, Everest, and, of course, the Eiger. Always with a keen eye, an open heart, and a hunger for the ultimate experience, he gives us unerring portraits of the mountaineering experience. Yet Eiger Dreams is more about people than about rock and ice--people with that odd, sometimes maniacal obsession with mountain summits that sets them apart from other men and women. Here we meet Adrian the Romanian, determined to be the first of his countrymen to solo Denali; John Gill, climber not of great mountains but of house-sized boulders so difficult to surmount that even demanding alpine climbs seem easy; and many more compelling and colorful characters. In the most intimate piece, "The Devils Thumb," Krakauer recounts his own near-fatal, ultimately triumphant struggle with solo-madness as he scales Alaska's Devils Thumb. Eiger Dreams is stirring, vivid writing about one of the most compelling and dangerous of all human pursuits.… (plus d'informations)
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» Voir aussi les 29 mentions

Affichage de 1-5 de 21 (suivant | tout afficher)
This book is really a collection of articles that Krakauer published in magazines such as Outside, Smithsonian and others. The common theme is mountain climbing and survival and more subtly "why in the world do people risk life and limb to do this?"

I'm not sure I came away with a satisfactory answer to the latter, but I did find this book to be very well written, and oftentimes I was literally biting my nails in empathy for the climbers.

I have always really loved books about mountaineering - - in fact a few of you have recommended some to me that I have actually purchased and just have yet to conquer. In fact, I tend to save them for a time when I just don't feel much like reading (yeah, it's rare, but it happens). And they always jump start me.

After reading these books, I never actually feel any drive whatsoever to actually go climb any of these places . . .in fact the opposite. . .but on some level, I can't get enough of reading about it. This book was no exception. Very satisfying, and if you like Krakauer's writing style, you'll find it in top form here. ( )
  Anita_Pomerantz | Mar 23, 2023 |
Compelling storytelling about the author's adventures in the mountains and the characters he's met along the way. ( )
  spuddybuddy | Feb 11, 2023 |
Every once in a while, I remember my fascination with mountain climbing. As a lifelong acrophobe, I have absolutely no desire to climb mountains myself (12,000 feet and I do not agree), but seeing photos of the stark beauty of Everest's Western Cwm, I can understand the appeal.

I'd never read Krakauer's mountain climbing stories before. I think I've heard about some of his takes on K2's Black Summer of 1986, and the Everest Disaster of 1996, but I'd forgotten the details by the time I read this book, and I'm glad for it.

Krakauer has an amazing way with words. I had to look up so many of the references he made, and the analogies were extremely vivid. When describing views that most people will never see, this is important and very much appreciated. He's also very self-deprecating. When describing climbing trips, he explains the technical prowess of his partner, leaving his own accomplishments unremarked (being able to hang with these guys is an accomplishment of itself. He fawns over Marc Twight's 5.12 rating, but Krakauer is right there on the Nordwand with him).

This leaves a weird sense of both an outsider and an insider's view into the world of mountain climbing. Krakauer is obviously capable of making many of these climbs - and has attempted many of them - but his lack of single-minded life-destroying drive puts him right back down with mortal men. It's an interesting gap to bridge.

Eiger Dreams was immediately dated by the time it was written. A lot of the stories serve as a snapshot biography of people famous in the climbing world in 1989, who may or may not still be well-known thirty years later. Krakauer does an excellent job of humanizing them, which comes with the cost of realizing how human they are. The Burgess twins, for instance, didn't sound like particularly nice men.

I'm giving this a 4 because it was well-written, but I didn't think all of the essays flowed or fit together perfectly. The Chamonix chapter was especially unappealing to me. ( )
  Tikimoof | Feb 17, 2022 |
It's a nice collection of short stories. Only two of them are stories, Krakauer experienced himself. The other ones are about the history of different styles of mounteniering, like Bouldering, famous Mountaineerer or just great or crazy adventures in the mountain. Of course, some of the stories are great, you can't put the book to the side (5 Stars), others are a little bit to long and to boring. But all in all, it makes fun reading the stories ( )
  TofuBuchling | Apr 14, 2021 |
With a strong fear of heights, I have no interest in climbing but Krakauer can capture the reader's interest no matter the subject. The chapters on climbing are gripping, but the one titled "On Being Tentbound" is just as entertaining. Who knew being stuck in a tent for several days in an icy storm could provide so much material. Krakauer does not fade for an instant in this outstanding collection.

This was one of the "emergency" heap of his favourite books my son brought to me when libraries were locked-down last spring. My only regret is that I didn't get to it sooner. ( )
  VivienneR | Feb 27, 2021 |
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The oldest, most widespread stories in the world are adventure stories, about human heroes who venture into the myth-countries at the risk of their lives, and bring back tales of the world beyond men . . . It could be argued . . . That the narrative art itself arose from the need to tell an adventure; that man risking his life in perilous encounters constitutes the original definition of what is worth talking about.
Paul Zweig, "The Adventurer"
Having an adventure shows that someone is incompetent, that something has gone wrong. An adventure is interesting enough in retrospect, especially to the person who didn't have it; at the time it happens it usually constitutes an exceedingly disagreeable experience.
Vilhjalmur Stefansson, "My Life with the Eskimo"
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For LINDA, with thoughts of Green Mountain Falls, the Wind Rivers, and Roanoke Street.
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Mountain climbing is comprehended dimly, if at all, by most of the nonclimbing world. (Author's note)
In the early moments of The Eiger Sanction, Clint Eastwood saunters into the dimply lit headquarters of C-2 to find out who he is supposed to assassinate next.
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No one writes about mountaineering and its attendant hardships and victories more brilliantly than critically acclaimed author Jon Krakauer. In this collection of his finest work from such magazines as Outside and Smithsonian, he explores the subject from the unique and memorable perspective of one who has battled peaks like K2, Denali, Everest, and, of course, the Eiger. Always with a keen eye, an open heart, and a hunger for the ultimate experience, he gives us unerring portraits of the mountaineering experience. Yet Eiger Dreams is more about people than about rock and ice--people with that odd, sometimes maniacal obsession with mountain summits that sets them apart from other men and women. Here we meet Adrian the Romanian, determined to be the first of his countrymen to solo Denali; John Gill, climber not of great mountains but of house-sized boulders so difficult to surmount that even demanding alpine climbs seem easy; and many more compelling and colorful characters. In the most intimate piece, "The Devils Thumb," Krakauer recounts his own near-fatal, ultimately triumphant struggle with solo-madness as he scales Alaska's Devils Thumb. Eiger Dreams is stirring, vivid writing about one of the most compelling and dangerous of all human pursuits.

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