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Opus Anglicanum: A Practical Guide

par Tanya Bentham

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Opus Anglicanum, 'English work', was one of the high arts of the Middle Ages, treasured and traded by princes and bishops across Europe. This practical guide explains how just two seemingly simple stitches - split stitch and underside couching - can give extraordinarily complex and sophisticated results that exploit the qualities of silk and gold thread. It introduces new techniques through fourteen projects that progress in difficulty. The book advises on shading, adding detail and authentic use of color; gives in-depth instruction on stitching faces, hair and hands, as well as wings, animals and landscaping and includes detailed reproductions of original pieces, as well as some with a contemporary twist. The book concentrates on the heyday of Opus Anglicanum, from the twelfth century to the fourteenth, when mastery of this art was at its height.… (plus d'informations)
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Books on the Opus Anglicanum (English work) embroidery are few and far between. Most are basically picture books, with lovingly photographed images of amazing 600-year-old (and older) surviving pieces, with the history of the item, the iconography of the design, and so on. I recommend these books most heartily for the sheer beauty that they document. Some even spend a few paragraphs on how the two basic stitches, Split stitch and Underside Couching, are worked.

But if you want to work a project of your own in this style, Tanya Bentham's Opus Anglicanum book is the book for you. Yes, there are only two basic stitches, but there are subtleties in how they are placed on the ground, the colors used, and even the shape of the fillings. Ms. Bentham addresses these in down-to-earth, conversational, easily understood terms, with detailed examples. She even talks about hand care for the stitcher, because the silk will catch on every roughness of your hands, and the underside couching can wear out your hands. Her focus is on the historical techniques and materials, and she sets modern materials and methods into this context.

The first chapter introduces the materials and technique overall. Chapters 2 - 5 goes into detail about split stitch techniques. Chapter 6 talks about Underside Couching. Chapters 7-13 are individual projects, covered in detail, introducing new styles of working with the techniques. For instance, Chapter 8, the Cherub, is also a sampler of wing styles.

I very much enjoyed her conversational writing style, her encouragement to adapt these techniques into one's own pieces, and the practical manner in which she approached the topic. Very much recommend this to those who want to stitch Opus Anglicanum projects. ( )
  EowynA | Jan 11, 2022 |
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Opus Anglicanum, 'English work', was one of the high arts of the Middle Ages, treasured and traded by princes and bishops across Europe. This practical guide explains how just two seemingly simple stitches - split stitch and underside couching - can give extraordinarily complex and sophisticated results that exploit the qualities of silk and gold thread. It introduces new techniques through fourteen projects that progress in difficulty. The book advises on shading, adding detail and authentic use of color; gives in-depth instruction on stitching faces, hair and hands, as well as wings, animals and landscaping and includes detailed reproductions of original pieces, as well as some with a contemporary twist. The book concentrates on the heyday of Opus Anglicanum, from the twelfth century to the fourteenth, when mastery of this art was at its height.

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