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Inside the Crocodile: The Papua New Guinea Journals

par Trish Nicholson

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In the wilds of the most diverse nation on earth, while she copes with crocodiles under the blackboard and sorcery in the office, Trish Nicholson survives near-fatal malaria and mollifies irascible politicians and an ever-changing roster of bosses - realities of life for a development worker. With a background in anthropology and a successful management career in Europe, five years on a development project in the remote West Sepik province of Papua New Guinea more than fulfils Trish Nicholson's desire for a challenge. In extreme tropical conditions, with few only sometimes-passable roads, travel is by a balus - an alarmingly tiny plane, landing on airstrips cut with grass knives and squeezed between mountains. Students build their own schools, babies' weights are recorded in rice bags and women walk for days, carrying their produce to market. Physically tested by dense jungle and swaying vine bridges, Trish's patience is stretched by nothing ever being what it seems and with 'yes' usually meaning 'no'. Assignments in isolated outstations provide surreal moments, like the 80-year-old missionary in long friar's robes revealing natty turquoise shorts as he tears away on an ancient motorbike. This emotionally engaging memoir is full of humour, adventure, iron determination and more.… (plus d'informations)
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Before I read Trish Nicholson’s travel memoir about her time as a development worker in Papua New Guinea, I have to admit that I knew very little about the country and its people. But the idea of an experienced social anthropologist and business professional taking on a five-year development project in this remote area of the world intrigued me on several levels. How does one leave the security of a well-established career and travel to the far reaches of the earth, into unknown and underdeveloped territory, to put skills to the test? And how does one survive in another culture without the amenities and social networks that seem to be necessary to not only survive but thrive and grow.

The author takes us unflinchingly into her experience—not sparing any details about the rugged terrain, fraying vine bridges across rivers; tiny, rickety, old planes that land in between mountains and carry her even deeper into uncivilized places ;and corrupt local politicians who thwart her efforts to bring organization and progress to the area. The reader is immersed in a culture where students build their own schools, babies’ weights are recorded in rice bags and women walk for days to sell their produce at markets.

Against the backdrop of this cultural immersion, is a personal story of close friendships forged by a common purpose to bring change and improvement to this underdeveloped area. One of my favorite characters is Frisbee, the dog who steals Trish’s heart and provides a source of comfort to her. We feel her pain when due to her required travels she is forced to leave Frisbee with a friend.

Trish captures the human experience with humor and passion. Her writing is descriptive and engaging. I was right there with her as she faced one obstacles after another—bouts with malaria, the extreme weather conditions, irascible politicians, saying goodbye to close friends, working with the locals to build a school. Interspersed throughout the text are quotes from the locals in their Pidgin language, which brings the reader even closer to the experience. A glossary is provided for quick and by the time I was halfway through the story, the foreign words were flowing.

The author answers the questions I posed in the beginning. Through this story, I learned that Papua New Guinea is considered to be “the most culturally diverse nation on earth”. Her vast experience, combined with her resilience and amazing spirit of adventure helped her to not only reach her goals to bring change and progress to a remote region of the world but also helped her to grow personally. It is in this transformation that this story which stemmed from her daily journaling, is such a worthwhile and inspirational read. She delivers on all counts—cultural enlightenment, personal growth and adventure. I highly recommend this fascinating travel memoir to anyone who enjoys reading about another culture and wants to enter into an adventuresome experience. ( )
  kathleen.pooler | Sep 11, 2015 |
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In the wilds of the most diverse nation on earth, while she copes with crocodiles under the blackboard and sorcery in the office, Trish Nicholson survives near-fatal malaria and mollifies irascible politicians and an ever-changing roster of bosses - realities of life for a development worker. With a background in anthropology and a successful management career in Europe, five years on a development project in the remote West Sepik province of Papua New Guinea more than fulfils Trish Nicholson's desire for a challenge. In extreme tropical conditions, with few only sometimes-passable roads, travel is by a balus - an alarmingly tiny plane, landing on airstrips cut with grass knives and squeezed between mountains. Students build their own schools, babies' weights are recorded in rice bags and women walk for days, carrying their produce to market. Physically tested by dense jungle and swaying vine bridges, Trish's patience is stretched by nothing ever being what it seems and with 'yes' usually meaning 'no'. Assignments in isolated outstations provide surreal moments, like the 80-year-old missionary in long friar's robes revealing natty turquoise shorts as he tears away on an ancient motorbike. This emotionally engaging memoir is full of humour, adventure, iron determination and more.

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