Not really a mountain climbing book like I expected, but rather a memoir about a man who realizes what's important in life after a near death experience. What I found fascinating was his wife's candid first person account of their marriage and her views of her husband as a father and husband. It's not often that a contentious marriage (that doesn't end in divorce) is revealed so frankly. A solid read that I would recommend to people who enjoy memoirs. ( )

So this is not Into Thin Air. And Beck Weathers is kind of upfront with that from the start: why would he write a book about the event when so much has already been said? I can see his point, but as a result, this is not a book that's focused on the Everest disaster part of the story.

Honestly, the title is kind of misleading, because it doesn't focus on his journey home from Everest either, it focuses on his journey there. How did he end up climbing mountains and why did he try Everest in particular? The answer is, kinda surprisingly, depression. Beck Weathers has suffered from depression and suicidal thoughts for a large part of his life, and the mountain climbing obsession was a way to distract himself from that.

Which of course put a strain on his family relationships, and that's largely what the book is about. How it is to live with someone who has depression but refuses to acknowledge that, even to themselves. It's actually brutally honest in that regard, and while it wasn't really why I picked up the book, it was an interesting read.

What it lacks, I think, it some sort of resolution? We see a bit about what happened that first year after the disaster (with gruesome descriptions of body parts falling off ... honestly, at one point I had to reread an entire paragraph, then I shouted OH MY GODS THAT'S SO GROSS and just had to pace around my apartment for a while before I could continue reading), but the depression angle is dropped completely. Was he "cured" after the disaster? Is he still depressed but have learned to cope with it in a healthier way? I think the book wants us to think he's magically cured, but I don't really believe in that and it would have been nice to know a bit more about it.

But nonetheless, it made for an interesting read. It was surprisingly funny. ( )

If you have read Jon Krakauer’s book Into Thin Air and wanted to know more about Beck Weathers, the man who nearly froze to death, Check out his book Left for Dead. The descriptions of the harsh climate and brutal conditions are well detailed in the first portion of his book.

Beck was is bad shape, helped down a portion of the mountain by Mike Groom. Once heading down the mountain and reaching the South Col, Weathers felt they were practically home free. In less than an hour they would be at camp, warming up with hot tea and sitting in their tents. But a blizzard came on them with zero warning.
Neil Beidleman later reflected it “was like being lost in a bottle of milk.”

As the climbers inched along trying to find camp it became clear the injured and physically exhausted climbers couldn’t continue. While a few went ahead to get help, Beck and four others stayed behind to await rescue. Yasuko & Beck were in such bad shape it was determined to leave them as they would die regardless of being brought back to camp.

By whatever internal motivation made Beck Weathers get up, injured and snow blind, he did manage to get back to camp on his own. By then his wife Peach had been informed he died. And then hours later, frost bitten and violently ill he shows up. Seriously, talk about against all odds.

Three quarters of the remaining part of the book tells about his early life with his brothers, how he and his wife met, the growing discordances between them as Beck was always away from home if he wasn’t working. The deep depression Beck describes as a Black Dog is very sobering. Being on a climb made that go away, he could feel the fog lift.
Interjected into the chapters you get his wife’s point of view as well as his brother and colleagues.

Beck was a pathologist with a thriving practice so money didn’t seem to be an issue. It was $65,000 for the Everest expedition - mountain climbing is not a cheap sport!

Once you get into the parts where he was rescued, an amazing feat there considering the conditions, you read about his recovery. His face and hands were frozen and he lost his hands and nose to frostbite. Lots and lots of surgeries.

Peach is quoted stating she understood why the team couldn’t risk lives to go after Yasuko or Beck as death was imminent. What she couldn’t understand was why Beck was left alone in a tent to die alone. Where was the human compassion? The other climbers were there anyway, in their tents, and what a gentle gesture it would have been to hear his last words, to let him know he wasn’t alone. I agree with her.

Overall an interesting story.

This is is my fifth book for the 2020 Nonfiction challenge hosted by Shelley at Book'd Out. Check it out HERE.

Category : Disaster. ( )

Estremecedor relato en el que describe como sobrevivió a una hipotermia y a unas condiciones climatológicas especialmente adversas. ( )

I enjoyed this book very much. I saw Everest on the big screen and was disappointed at the film's effort at fleshing out the characters a little more. I wanted to know more about Beck Weathers and this book did just that. I would recommend to anyone not only interested in the film, but in survival, the outdoors, climbing, and the dynamics of family relationships and how an individuals desires can affect the entire group. ( )