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Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef’s Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine

par Edward Lee

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18911146,052 (3.88)1
Cooking & Food. Essays. Nonfiction. HTML:

Winner, 2019 James Beard Award for Best Book of the Year in Writing
Finalist, 2019 IACP Award, Literary Food Writing
Named a Best Food Book of the Year by the Boston Globe, Smithsonian, BookRiot, and more
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Semifinalist, Goodreads Choice Awards
"Thoughtful, well researched, and truly moving. Shines a light on what it means to cook and eat American food, in all its infinitely nuanced and ever-evolving glory."
â??Anthony Bourdain

American food is the story of mash-ups. Immigrants arrive, cultures collide, and out of the push-pull come exciting new dishes and flavors. But for Edward Lee, who, like Anthony Bourdain or Gabrielle Hamilton, is as much a writer as he is a chef, that first surprising bite is just the beginning. What about the people behind the food? What about the traditions, the innovations, the memories?
A natural-born storyteller, Lee decided to hit the road and spent two years uncovering fascinating narratives from every corner of the country. There's a Cambodian couple in Lowell, Massachusetts, and their efforts to re-create the flavors of their lost country. A Uyghur café in New York's Brighton Beach serves a noodle soup that seems so very familiar and yet so very exoticâ??one unexpected ingredient opens a window onto an entirely unique culture. A beignet from Café du Monde in New Orleans, as potent as Proust's madeleine, inspires a narrative that tunnels through time, back to the first Creole cooks, then forward to a Korean rice-flour hoedduck and a beignet dusted with matcha.
Sixteen adventures, sixteen vibrant new chapters in the great evolving story of American cuisine. And forty recipes, created by Lee, that bring these new dishes into our own kitc… (plus d'informations)

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Mecklenburg County, North Carolina chose Buttermilk Graffiti as a Community Read for March 2024 and has many events promoting this book. Edward Lee writes an interesting and educational book on the various hometown favorite recipes, but the font of the book ruins the book. Due to the lousy font, reading this book provided a terrible journey instead of a delightful voyage into different cultures. The recipes faded on the black background. The discussion in the book showed many areas of delicious recipes and cultural background, but the font and lack of dark lettering drove this reader to boredom and wishing the book to end. I felt that my eyesight suffered with this book, and I could not enjoy Edward Lee’s writing style and comments. Workman Publishing destroys a wonderful book. ( )
  delphimo | Feb 22, 2024 |
Unintentionally a fitting read for the weekend I traveled to Lexington, KY for a family wedding given that Lee lives and works not too far away in Louisville. More travelogue than cookbook (though every chapter does have recipes from/related to his adventure), there's a lot of discussion about cultural identity through food (the throughline I still have 4 generations in after language has been lost), and the shifting landscape of cities (places with a lot of manufacturing always need labor and it comes in immigrant waves). Lee abhors the word "authentic", something I've started avoiding using as an adjective to discuss foods because what's truly authentic, especially if it's the cuisine of poor people trying to make do with available ingredients, or energetic young chefs trying to revive lost techniques?

Once again I have failed to make something from recipes before I returned it to the library so I can't verify how good they are, but they sounded great. ( )
  Daumari | Dec 28, 2023 |
"Our food reflects who we are as a people"

What a beautiful way to sum up this book. I have been familiar with Edward Lee since watching him on Top Chef; I have read his cookbook "Smoke and Pickles." But this book--part recipe book, part expose of American regions, part memoir--gave me a greater respect for this man not only as a chef, but as a human being.

"There is good food to be discovered everywhere. All it takes is an adventurous palate and an inquisitive mind. You can link both to the foods that sit in your memories.....It can link two things together that you might not have thought belonged together (buttermilk and graffiti). It is an adventure worth taking. It is a dish worth tasting." (Lee, 2018, pg. 310)

I now want to go explore the hidden haunts in cities; I want to truly sample the cuisine of the culture. I want to go to Cafe Du Monde. I want to go to Louisville. And I want to keep the recipes of my heritage alive. Yet make them uniquely mine. I am a melting pot =) ( )
  msgabbythelibrarian | Jun 11, 2023 |
Chef Edward Lee travels the country, eats food, and apparently wastes food, as the humongous amounts of food he reports ordering at restaurants cannot possibly be eaten by him. I just can't believe he eats all that. And he doesn't bring a traveling companion save in one chapter.

He visits New Orleans, Clarksdale, Montgomery, Indiana, and lots of other places. The chapters generally provide some introduction, some talk about the logistics of travel, interviews with chefs, and eating, and conclusion.

The most memorable was his chapter of visiting Detroit, a city with a large Muslim population, during Ramadan. He decides to try the sunup-to-sundown fasting. Yet he sticks to his plan of visiting restaurants and talking to chefs and ordering a ton of food - and photographing it and talking about it - just not eating it. I was intrigued why someone would torture himself that way. When sundown is moments away, and he orders a big meal at a restaurant that he can actually eat immediately, a fellow faster frowns at him. He tells him he should break his fast with something humble; the fast is about showing solidarity with the poor, so it would be more fitting to order something humble. Besides (here it comes) all that heavy food you just ordered would just make you sick if you ate it right away.

I wasn't particularly grabbed by any other chapters. Lee seems likeable enough. I couldn't help comparing it to EAT A PEACH by David Chang, another Korean chef memoirist. But unlike Chang, Lee is not into writing about his restaurants, or even himself, very much. They are very different books. ( )
  Tytania | Jul 20, 2022 |
Edward Lee's exploration of the connection between immigration, food, and American culture contains 16 chapters that read like essays. Each chapter investigates how culture and environment can change and shape food, whether it's Black women cooking soul food or Nigerian or German immigrants adapting their food to American ingredients.

For me, the book is a little too precious, Lee's reactions a little too exaggerated. Although I enjoy his collection of origin stories with the various chefs he interviews, his reaction to the many dishes he tries seems over the top to me. Maybe I lack refined taste buds--or maybe there's no maybe about it. I myself am a simple home cook, trying to make fresh food with a few ingredients and a minimum of labor.

As for the recipes that accompany each chapter, I find them too time consuming and too complicated. (See above comment about being a simple cook.) If you have access to a Korean market for chili paste or regularly use rice flour, this may be the book for you. But it's not a great cookbook for me. ( )
  barlow304 | Jan 26, 2021 |
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Cooking & Food. Essays. Nonfiction. HTML:

Winner, 2019 James Beard Award for Best Book of the Year in Writing
Finalist, 2019 IACP Award, Literary Food Writing
Named a Best Food Book of the Year by the Boston Globe, Smithsonian, BookRiot, and more

Semifinalist, Goodreads Choice Awards
"Thoughtful, well researched, and truly moving. Shines a light on what it means to cook and eat American food, in all its infinitely nuanced and ever-evolving glory."
â??Anthony Bourdain

American food is the story of mash-ups. Immigrants arrive, cultures collide, and out of the push-pull come exciting new dishes and flavors. But for Edward Lee, who, like Anthony Bourdain or Gabrielle Hamilton, is as much a writer as he is a chef, that first surprising bite is just the beginning. What about the people behind the food? What about the traditions, the innovations, the memories?
A natural-born storyteller, Lee decided to hit the road and spent two years uncovering fascinating narratives from every corner of the country. There's a Cambodian couple in Lowell, Massachusetts, and their efforts to re-create the flavors of their lost country. A Uyghur café in New York's Brighton Beach serves a noodle soup that seems so very familiar and yet so very exoticâ??one unexpected ingredient opens a window onto an entirely unique culture. A beignet from Café du Monde in New Orleans, as potent as Proust's madeleine, inspires a narrative that tunnels through time, back to the first Creole cooks, then forward to a Korean rice-flour hoedduck and a beignet dusted with matcha.
Sixteen adventures, sixteen vibrant new chapters in the great evolving story of American cuisine. And forty recipes, created by Lee, that bring these new dishes into our own kitc

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