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The New Taste of Chocolate: A Cultural and Natural History of Cacao with Recipes

par Maricel E. Presilla

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More than two hundred years ago, the great Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus christened the cacao tree Theobroma cacao, "food-of-the-gods cacao." Truly, chocolate is the closest thing we mortals have to ambrosia. But not all chocolate is created equal, a fact we instinctively know when we bite into an exceptional piece of chocolate. What qualities set artisanal chocolate apart from mass-marketed brands? How does chocolate impact our health? How will the rising popularity of microbatch chocolate affect the industry? To find out, The New Taste of Chocolate, Revised takes us on a journey beginning with Maya and Aztec chocolate rituals, followed by exploring the significance of cacao through the ages, up through groundbreaking contemporary genetic discoveries.Going far beyond the scope of anything currently written about chocolate, this definitive illustrated reference has been revised and expanded to immerse chocolate lovers in the rich history and science of the cacao bean. Celebrated author, scholar, and chocolate expert Maricel E. Presilla introduces us to the broad array of cacao cultivars, meticulously covering the latest research, then explores the art of cacao farming and the people who dedicate their lives to cultivating the precious cacao pods. She also elucidates the harvesting, fermenting, and drying practices that create subtle distinctions in the tastes of particular strains of cacao. From the burnished reds and shocking yellows of the cacao fruits to the deep mahoganies and milky tans of the finished product, we follow cacao from bean to bar, each incarnation as luscious as the next.More than just a cultural and natural history of our most coveted indulgence, The New Taste of Chocolate, Revised includes a new collection of Maricel Presilla's savory recipes plus sweet contributions from internationally renowned pastry chefs and chocolatiers. Presilla dissects buzzwords such as single origin and estate grown, illuminates chocolate trends gaining traction with manufacturers and connoisseurs, and predicts what the future holds for chocolate as a globally celebrated delicacy. With stunning new full color photography and rare archival prints throughout, this comprehensive and gorgeous book will help chocoholics cultivate an appreciation for the infinite subtleties of their favorite culinary delight.… (plus d'informations)
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I bought this book several years ago, along with a molinillo at a (then) small and artisanal chocolate maker in Somerville, MA. I was drawn in by the cover, and didn't really engage with it much before buying it, assuming it would be a "coffee-table" book with recipes. Instead, this is an extraordinary account of the different historical and cultural contexts of cacao, with a clear explanation of the different types of plants, provenances, and uses by chocolate makers. The level of detail, particularly in the botanical section, is extensive, and Presilla manages to find a great tone that strikes a balance between journalism and historiography. This is not a book for chocolate snobs who have no interest in the beginning and end of the journey of cacao. The author offers nuanced advice for how to learn about and appreciate chocolate and is even-handed in her assessments: "...today even the largest commercial makers have hopped on the bandwagon for boutique-type labeling with identification of national origin. This information is helpful to a point, but it is not an infallible clue to quality. The fact that the cacao was grown in an exotic-sounding country says very little about the cacao itself--for instance, the variety or the particular region of origin within a country" (140). Presilla honors the rich traditions of using cacao amongst indigenous peoples in Mexico and South America and provides a very informed cultural understanding of the import of cacao in both anti-colonial and colonial contexts.

And then there are the recipes. Admittedly, one will likely need access to high quality chocolate, nibs, and or cacao beans, but Presilla offers some online sources for purchase (I have not checked these out). The photography is gorgeous, and indeed...it will not be long before I try Maya-Mediterranean Chocolate Rice Pudding of her "Imagined" Maya Turkey Soup-Stew with Cacao and Chiles.

This is a remarkable book-- "illustrated reference" is the description on the dust jacket, but I think that does not adequately describe what it offers. If you have interests in global cuisine and a cultural history of food, this should be part of your library. Definitely one of the most interesting books I have read in the genre. ( )
  rebcamuse | Jun 18, 2021 |
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More than two hundred years ago, the great Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus christened the cacao tree Theobroma cacao, "food-of-the-gods cacao." Truly, chocolate is the closest thing we mortals have to ambrosia. But not all chocolate is created equal, a fact we instinctively know when we bite into an exceptional piece of chocolate. What qualities set artisanal chocolate apart from mass-marketed brands? How does chocolate impact our health? How will the rising popularity of microbatch chocolate affect the industry? To find out, The New Taste of Chocolate, Revised takes us on a journey beginning with Maya and Aztec chocolate rituals, followed by exploring the significance of cacao through the ages, up through groundbreaking contemporary genetic discoveries.Going far beyond the scope of anything currently written about chocolate, this definitive illustrated reference has been revised and expanded to immerse chocolate lovers in the rich history and science of the cacao bean. Celebrated author, scholar, and chocolate expert Maricel E. Presilla introduces us to the broad array of cacao cultivars, meticulously covering the latest research, then explores the art of cacao farming and the people who dedicate their lives to cultivating the precious cacao pods. She also elucidates the harvesting, fermenting, and drying practices that create subtle distinctions in the tastes of particular strains of cacao. From the burnished reds and shocking yellows of the cacao fruits to the deep mahoganies and milky tans of the finished product, we follow cacao from bean to bar, each incarnation as luscious as the next.More than just a cultural and natural history of our most coveted indulgence, The New Taste of Chocolate, Revised includes a new collection of Maricel Presilla's savory recipes plus sweet contributions from internationally renowned pastry chefs and chocolatiers. Presilla dissects buzzwords such as single origin and estate grown, illuminates chocolate trends gaining traction with manufacturers and connoisseurs, and predicts what the future holds for chocolate as a globally celebrated delicacy. With stunning new full color photography and rare archival prints throughout, this comprehensive and gorgeous book will help chocoholics cultivate an appreciation for the infinite subtleties of their favorite culinary delight.

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