This is a wonderful book and not just for lovers of travel. Edward Lear, renowned for his nonsense verse and his exquisite water colours came to Crete in 1864 and this beautiful volume records his travels and experiences in Crete. Lear came to Crete after a long and loving sojourn in Corfu.

First let me deal with the book qua book. The copy I have is a particularly fine production that was published in Athens in the 'Romiosyni Series' (studies and translations in the field of modern Greek culture). I quote from an entry on Abebooks : "Full brown cloth, illus. blocked in gilt to front board; 117pp.; illus. bw. drawings/tipped-in col. plates". This a truly handsome book that is lovely to behold and grand to hold. The illustrations are Lear's own work and are beautiful (BTW when they say tipped in it indicates that the illustrations are printed separately from the book itself and are effectively glued onto the pages. There are intruguing sketches, gorgeous watercolours and, amusing cartoons scattered throughout the text which is quarto in format. It also includes a map, a glossary, and an index. What more could one want in a travel book?

The text is adapted from Lear's handwritten journal and at least one page of his actual journal is reproduced. Lear managed to arrive in Crete during a particularly wet and cold April and stayed until May and while the weather improved during his stay it clearly influenced his opinions and they are also coloured by comparison to his beloved Corfu. For all of the negative taint Lear still finds the people unremittingly kind and generous, if dirty and odorous. The landscapes and the crops - such as he can see them - leave him largely unimpressed but for a modern reader comparing the historic landscapes and the current is enlightening. I, for one, had never realised or noticed that the olive trees at the westernmost end of the island are stunted but, on close inspection, it holds true to this day. Some Cretophiles I have spoken with found Lear's somewhat disparaging descriptions a barrier to enjoying this magnificent volume but I had no such problem. I love this book and will recommend it to anyone and everyone. ( )