Exemplary ( )

A reasonably well-written book, though some chapters read more like a collection of vignettes and less like a cohesive, continuous narrative/exposition.

A very frustrating book for a number of reasons.

Firstly, the author clearly loves fashion and the history of fashion, and luxury (or at least the concept of luxury) and it's history; I, however, find much of this... tasteless. It is consumerism and gaudiness dressed up (pun intended, I suppose) in some form of respectability. But I recognize this is, at least in part, a purely personal view (though, I stress, only in part.)

Secondly, the author seems to find the "democratization" of luxury to be... problematic. I guess I was looking for more of a strong voice/opinion; much of what she describes is not new, but her description definitely leaves one feeling... repulsed, disgusted. And yet she never quite condemns it, which I found myself increasingly frustratedly waiting for.

Thirdly, she documents a bit of "true" luxury, discussed the rise on new luxury classes, again without ever really pointing out forcefully how the uber-rich in e.g. Russia or China are tied to endemic, state-tied corruption and brutal repression. It is mentioned more in passing... e.g., toward the very in end of the book, there is a quote from a Chanel representative (I believe it was Chanel) who interjects into her comment that these people's money isn't "dirty," betraying a self-awareness on the part of the representative that that kind of thing is in fact an issue.

The discussion on counterfeiting is also frustrating. The author's examples clearly illustrate the terrible consequences of piracy, that is it is emphatically not a victimless crime. I guess I couldn't help but feel I was left waiting for the other shoe to drop (pun... or not?) The insatiable hunger that drives people want "luxury" labels is on a straight line to this behavior, if at one more remove; where was the discussion of the elephant in the room?

I guess this last is what really bothered me, throughout the book. Everywhere the consumerism, greed, shallowness that the entire "luxury" industry -old and new forms- is built on, and yet it is left largely half said. Perhaps this on purpose. But it bothered me so much. ( )

Very informative and detailed. I learned a lot about the world of fashion. I would love to see an update now that China has roared to capitalist life. ( )

i really, really enjoyed this book (the introductory chapters detailing the stages of licensing, vertical integration, and um conglomeration(?)) were so good.

the luxe aesthetic is not mine. luxury is interesting only in its old world-ishness and in the thrill of associations evoked by words like silk and crocodile skin and gold. fashion is *ideas*, and as such, designer clothes could cost even more than they do. think Duchamp or Damian Hurst (sp?). clothes should be durable, tailored nicely, etc, but how many times can any garment be worn before it decays naturally? how many times before it starts looking wrong (worn out physically or aesthetically)? i don't think the fabric quality or the stitching matter so much after a certain point (i mean, gareth bale is faster than cristiano ronaldo, but i'm not about to buy bale for juve), and to pay such prices for commodities and craftsmanship is to have waaaay more money than sense. one could, after all, visit the special ateliers Dior uses and order one's own clothese directly from the artisans. you could find someone who knows ciwgise and sewing and everything and get your own bag made; if the problem with that bag is it isnt recognizable as a Kelly or a Baguette, then im done with you. wanting to look rich is pretty much boring and unoriginal, but that desire keeps a lot of artists working...there would be no Marc Jacobs without LVMH, so grab yr logo bag and drink that moet or hennessey whatever, ya rich jerk. ( )

Strong, well-argued social and business history. Makes you think and contains about 19 bits of little trivia you must share with friends. Luxury is both central and scarcely the point. Asks the larger question of "what happens when something admired by the few is suddenly within the reach of the many?" ( )