The story of Dany Laferriere, the narrator and writer living in exile in Montreal, who finally comes home to Haiti. Nothing is different, and yet everything has changed. There is his mother, who has never left Haiti, not even for one minute, and who still performs all the rituals of old. But there is also the army of zombies that takes over the streets at night, while the American army occupies the country by day. What is this country of dead men? Is every Haitian a secret citizen? Is it possible for Laferriere to cross over to that country and then return?Laferriere wanders through Port-au-Prin.