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The Rule of the Land: Walking Ireland's Border

par Garrett Carr

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A beautiful piece of travel writing along the Irish border.
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In the fallout from Brexit, the only land border between the UK and Europe will be between 300 miles along the porous border between Ireland and Northern Ireland. This line once staffed by soldiers and checkpoints had started to fade back into obscurity as the tensions and anger from decades of the Troubles eased and dissipated. Garrett Carr decided to walk and canoe along this border, to get a sense of the state of these nations and discover more about the people and places. The area he walks through are lightly populated with the odd farm and some villages and towns. Some of the people he meets on his journey are friendly and welcoming, others suspicious and reserved, a hangover from times past. It is a beautiful part of the world, full of ancient monuments, crannogs, ruined forts and the relics of recent history, checkpoints and damaged bridges, illegal border crossing points and observation points.

The book is a lovely blend of ancient history, contemporary issues, and of course travel. Carr touches lightly on the Troubles, reporting incidents and events of atrocities as he passes where they took place; he does not judge either side, leaving us to wonder about the point of some of the most cruel events. Whilst peace has returned to the region, people are still sensitive to the past. Carr is an eloquent and lyrical writer making this book a pleasure to read as he takes us through this liminal borderland. He has a great selection of photos taken throughout his walk of significant and interesting features. As well as that, the maps are probably the best I have seen in any travel book, ever, but you’d expect that given his background. It is a significant book about this country and I can highly recommend it. ( )
  PDCRead | Apr 6, 2020 |
https://nwhyte.livejournal.com/3321903.html

As Brexit looms at the end of this month, this book looks at what life is actually like along the Irish border, the author walking and camping (and occasionally canoeing) along the entire disputed length of it. He goes from south-east to north-west, so starting with the bits I know best and taking me into less well charted territory; it's a lovely series of vignettes of the realities of the land, and the brutal history that goes along with it. There is a particularly memorable sequence in the middle that segues from Barry McGuigan as hero to Sean Quinn as villain. The section on the cave networks which are literally undermining the border between Cavan and Fermanagh is also pretty memorable. A good book to give to anyone who doesn't really understand the Ireland/Brexit relationship, and isn't all that interested in the politics. ( )
  nwhyte | Jan 22, 2020 |
This book by Garrett Carr written post the EU referendum last year is the story of his 300 mile journey from east to west along the Irish border undertaken mostly by foot but also at times by canoe.
This border not only separates two sovereign countries and Irish counties but will soon separate the European Union from a country outside it.

The book covers history, geography, archaeology, mythology and politics and also musings about what a border is and the impact it has on both the geography and the people living there.

Colm Tobin's book Bad Blood - A walk along the Irish border- first published in 1987 and referenced by Garrett was written at a time when the border was militarised with watchtowers and army checkpoints in place, now thankfully this time has gone. Although the political aspect of the border is a recurrent theme throughout, Garrett has an objective and neutral stance which adds to the poignancy of the book.

In the book you will learn about the history of the area both ancient and modern, come across standing stones, disused railway lines, abandoned mill factories and grand houses, some gone and others now 5 star hotels. You will meet local people and their tales and also hear about Garrett's past, stories of growing up in the area and his experience crossing the border when custom posts were in existence.

The book contains photos and maps which enhance the story.

The theme running through the book is that the border area for its people has become almost a third country with its own mind set and beliefs.
On a personal level having walked the country lanes of Fermanagh, I can vouch for the need to take care against speeding traffic due to the poor roadside walking verges, but don't let this put you off, read this excellent book and consider planning your own journey in this unspoilt and largely undiscovered by tourist region.
(A copy was provided for review purposes.) ( )
  George1st | Jul 2, 2018 |
Garrett Carr has a fine eye for the relationship between landscape, history and people. In this book he captures the changing nature of the borderland as he travels from East to West, drawing on history both recent and ancient as they contribute to the sense of place and picking up the idiosyncrasies of the people he comes across with gentle afffection. 7 April 2018 ( )
  alanca | Apr 9, 2018 |
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