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A Square Meal: A Culinary History of the Great Depression (2016)

par Jane Ziegelman

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24313109,465 (3.65)20
James Beard Foundation Book Award Winner From the author of the acclaimed 97 Orchard and her husband, a culinary historian, an in-depth exploration of the greatest food crisis the nation has ever faced--the Great Depression--and how it transformed America's culinary culture. The decade-long Great Depression, a period of shifts in the country's political and social landscape, forever changed the way America eats. Before 1929, America's relationship with food was defined by abundance. But the collapse of the economy, in both urban and rural America, left a quarter of all Americans out of work and undernourished--shattering long-held assumptions about the limitlessness of the national larder. In 1933, as women struggled to feed their families, President Roosevelt reversed long-standing biases toward government-sponsored "food charity." For the first time in American history, the federal government assumed, for a while, responsibility for feeding its citizens. The effects were widespread. Championed by Eleanor Roosevelt, "home economists" who had long fought to bring science into the kitchen rose to national stature. Tapping into America's long-standing ambivalence toward culinary enjoyment, they imposed their vision of a sturdy, utilitarian cuisine on the American dinner table. Through the Bureau of Home Economics, these women led a sweeping campaign to instill dietary recommendations, the forerunners of today's Dietary Guidelines for Americans. At the same time, rising food conglomerates introduced packaged and processed foods that gave rise to a new American cuisine based on speed and convenience. This movement toward a homogenized national cuisine sparked a revival of American regional cooking. In the ensuing decades, the tension between local traditions and culinary science has defined our national cuisine--a battle that continues today. A Square Meal examines the impact of economic contraction and environmental disaster on how Americans ate then--and the lessons and insights those experiences may hold for us today. A Square Meal features 25 black-and-white photographs.… (plus d'informations)
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As I stirred a pot of increasingly gluey tapioca pudding a couple days ago, I pondered how old-fashioned a dessert it seems -- a comforting, if mysterious, childhood dessert that is missing from my children's childhoods so far. But my parents knew of it, as did their parents, and possibly theirs. But the taste for it began somewhere, right? I mean, it's a bizarre confection that seems like just a vehicle for milk ingestion (although in my house it's almond milk), because that's precisely what it is -- a dish introduced to thousands of New York public schoolchildren during the lean hungry years of the Depression, when federal and state governments grappled with the problems of how to feed hungry, jobless Americans.

The book is a fascinating exploration of how America's food tastes changed in response to scarcity, and the roles played by government agencies, popular advertising, and lawmakers in shaping our food expectations for generations. I have added this title to my mental list of required reading to understand the Great Depression years, a list that includes Tobacco Road, The Worst Hard Time, The Cotton Tenants, and Let Us Now Praise Famous Men. ( )
  FinallyJones | Nov 17, 2021 |
Do you want to be infuriated at government ineptitude? Probably not, but if you pick up this book and read about the horrible decisions made in administering (or in many cases, not administering) food aid during the Great Depression, you will certainly see parallels to today's economic crises. The poor and unemployed, the rural, the women and children all suffer when government officials are far removed and distant from the devastation on the ground.

I picked this up thinking it would be an interesting read about victory gardens and the birth of the modern kitchen -- and there's certainly some of that -- but this is much more a sociological and political history than it is a culinary history. ( )
  resoundingjoy | Jan 1, 2021 |
Cette critique a été écrite dans le cadre des Critiques en avant-première de LibraryThing.
The subtitle of this book is a little misleading. Ziegelman and Coe reach all the way back to the World War I era to lead into a culinary history of the Great Depression. With the U.S. entry into World War I came a rapid industrialization of the nation's food supply and the rise of expert professions such as nutritionists, dietitians, and home economists. The authors explore the effects of the Depression and food relief programs in different states and regions, from New York to California. The audio version is a more challenging listening experience than the average nonfiction audiobook because of the number of menus and recipes included in the text. Fortunately, the narrator was up for the challenge. Her expression and clear enunciation made it a pleasure to listen.

This review is based on a complimentary audio CD provided by the publisher through LibraryThing's Early Reviewers program. ( )
  cbl_tn | Feb 23, 2018 |
The subject matter of this book is intriguing--the culinary history of the Great Depression--though in the end, it wasn't quite what I hoped it would be. The book starts out strong, detailing how World War I changed American's outlooks on food, and how that continued to evolve through the 1920s with major shifts to delis and cafeterias and corporation-driven food trends. Unfortunately, I found that where the food faltered was on the Depression itself. It became much more of a social history, emphasizing the growth of public school lunches to keep children alive and focused, and how Hoover and Roosevelt handled (and didn't handle) the crisis. I wanted to see more examples of foods and recipes of the period, and how different regions adapted in specific ways. Major emphases is on the starvation and malnutrition of people who were without work, but I wanted to see more of how employed people adapted to these tough times. This feels like a time and subject that still has a wealth of material to be explored. ( )
  ladycato | Jul 30, 2017 |
Cette critique a été écrite dans le cadre des Critiques en avant-première de LibraryThing.
At first I wanted to call the audio stilted but then I realized Susan Ericksen was aptly portraying the audio tone (or monotone, if you will) of the era.

Through the sieve of American history, I was able to get a proper view of the culture and the culinary outlook of the era.

Library Thing Early Readers Audio Copy
(Thank You)
  pennsylady | Jun 29, 2017 |
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James Beard Foundation Book Award Winner From the author of the acclaimed 97 Orchard and her husband, a culinary historian, an in-depth exploration of the greatest food crisis the nation has ever faced--the Great Depression--and how it transformed America's culinary culture. The decade-long Great Depression, a period of shifts in the country's political and social landscape, forever changed the way America eats. Before 1929, America's relationship with food was defined by abundance. But the collapse of the economy, in both urban and rural America, left a quarter of all Americans out of work and undernourished--shattering long-held assumptions about the limitlessness of the national larder. In 1933, as women struggled to feed their families, President Roosevelt reversed long-standing biases toward government-sponsored "food charity." For the first time in American history, the federal government assumed, for a while, responsibility for feeding its citizens. The effects were widespread. Championed by Eleanor Roosevelt, "home economists" who had long fought to bring science into the kitchen rose to national stature. Tapping into America's long-standing ambivalence toward culinary enjoyment, they imposed their vision of a sturdy, utilitarian cuisine on the American dinner table. Through the Bureau of Home Economics, these women led a sweeping campaign to instill dietary recommendations, the forerunners of today's Dietary Guidelines for Americans. At the same time, rising food conglomerates introduced packaged and processed foods that gave rise to a new American cuisine based on speed and convenience. This movement toward a homogenized national cuisine sparked a revival of American regional cooking. In the ensuing decades, the tension between local traditions and culinary science has defined our national cuisine--a battle that continues today. A Square Meal examines the impact of economic contraction and environmental disaster on how Americans ate then--and the lessons and insights those experiences may hold for us today. A Square Meal features 25 black-and-white photographs.

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