PREFACE THIS book presents practical working directions for the design and construction of womens clothing, including various kinds of outer- and undergarments. It includes problems embracing the fundamental principles involved in the selection and design of clothing the theory and use of color pattern-making and clothing construction. As the mission of the text is chiefly the exposition of constructive processes, the selection of apparel and choice of material has been treated in a manner as best fitted into the scheme of the book. A more scientific treatment of textiles may be found in the numerous texts listed in the bibliography. The construction of garments has been approached from the standpoint of those who have had instruction in elementary sewing. For those who have not had such instruction, a review of the fundamental stitches, and some simple processes, have been included in the section on undergarments. When used in schools and colleges, it is not intended that the subject matter be taken bodily from the text for classroom use, but rather that a selection of problems be assigned by the teacher, that will best fit the needs of students, and the time allotted to the subject in the curriculum and that the text in the hands of students be supplemented by the teachers instruction. It is important that teachers read the section written for them, which is intended to aid in an intelligent use of the text pp. 426-437. In the home, the text will, it is believed, serve as a reliable handbook to the woman who makes her own clothing or supervises its construction while thewomanwho purchasesready to wear garments will receive help in her selection by the standards suggested here. Specialsuggestions for the homewomen are given pp. 437-439. The author wishes to express her appreciation of the interest others have shown in the preparation of the text to Professor Jane Fales, Head of Department of Textiles and Clothing, Teachers College, for permission to employ some of the drafts in use at Teachers College, certain modifications of which have been made to suit the needs of this text to Miss Alice F. Carleton, student of Teachers College, for assistance in the preparation of other drafts to Miss Florence Newcomb, Washington Irving High School, New York, for the chapter on Color, and criticism of the chapter on Design to Miss Margaret 0. McGowin, Washington Irving High School, for the chapter on Embroidery, and assistance in preparation of illustrations to Miss Euth Penfield Sill, Director Domestic Art, Central Technical School, Toronto, Canada, for criticism of the section on Undergarments to students of Teachers College, pupils of Washington Irving High School, and others who kindly loaned garments, made sketches, or assisted in the preparation of illustrations. LAURA I. BALDT Teachers College, Columbia University, New York City, April, 1916, IX. CHAPTER CONTENTS PAGE I. CLOTHING BUDGETS AND BUYING 3 II. FABRICS FACTS FOR CONSUMERS . 16 III. PRINCIPLES OF CLOTHING DESIGN 55 IV. COLOR 69 V. PATTERN MAKING 85 VI. PATTERN MAKING MANNISH SHIRT AND MIDDY BLOUSE. . . . 107 VII. PATTERN MAKING SKIRTS AND UNDERGARMENTS 116 VIII...