"From Christian Dior to Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, many of the greatest fashion designers of the past century have been gay. Fashion and style have played an important role within the LGBTQ community, as well, even as early as the 18th century. This provocative book looks at the history of fashion through a queer lens, examining high fashion as a site of gay cultural production and exploring the aesthetic sensibilities and unconventional dress of LGBTQ people, especially since the 1950s, to demonstrate the centrality of gay culture to the creation of modern fashion. Contributions by some of the world's most acclaimed scholars of gay history and fashion - including Christopher Breward, Shaun Cole, Vicki Karaminas, Jonathan D. Katz, Peter McNeil, and Elizabeth Wilson - investigate topics such as the context in which key designers' lives and works form part of a broader "gay" history; the "archeology" of queer attire back to the homosexual underworld of 18th-century Europe; and the influence of LGBTQ subcultural styles from the trouser suits worn by Marlene Dietrich (which inspired Yves Saint Laurent's "Le Smoking") to the iconography of leather. Sumptuous illustrations include both fashion photography and archival imagery"-- "Although it has long been recognized that gay people appear to have a special relationship with fashion and style, this will be the first book to look at the history of fashion through a queer lens and to explore the "gayness" or "queerness" of fashion. The book will explore the importance of gay men as fashion designers from the 1930s to the present, including the contributions to fashion history of gay designers such as Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Alexander McQueen. Bisexual and lesbian designers and other fashion professionals will also be considered. In addition, the book will document the creativity and resistance to oppression expressed by LGBTQ (lesbian-gay-bisexual-transgender-queer) sub-cultural styles, which have often transgressed sex and gender norms. Finally, the book will explore the influence of a queer sensibility, queer aesthetic(s), and queer sub-cultural styles on fashion over the past century"--